Rachel
Hello reader(s), I am back in the Maldives and it feels like I have been away forever although actually only two weeks. I am now feeling revitalised and refreshed after a trip to Kerala in India, particularly appreciating the open spaces, greenery and HILLS, all of which are in short supply in the Maldives. I will not bore you with all the details as it is not really what this site is about but if you really would like to see photos I will upload them to facebook in the not too distant future and in short I had a fab time. August has been a great month for me so far as before I left for India I learnt to dive with the lovely people at Into Scuba on Hulhumale. So in the past couple of weeks I have seen sharks, turtles, manta rays, wild elephants, buffalo, monkeys, peacocks and leeches (in their thousands), and now feel ready to get on the horse again for September when we welcome Dan and Cat from Westminster School to the Maldives.
Rachel
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I know I know – it’s been a long time since the last blog. I thought you would like to see some photos of the island I’m on and my accommodation, surrounds and the fabulous place I have my meals. Howsomever, this will have to wait – I think the photos are going to take all night to upload so wish me luck. In the mean time as food is always close to my heart we will start there.
I have finally found a real life feeder – Nurislam! I have been on the lookout for one of these ever since, I’m sure it was a channel 5 programme, came out about them. If things continue as they are and I return from the Maldives the same size I was when I left the UK I will be very pleased. I was told I would lose weight here but obviously the two coaches last year lacked the all powerful presence of Nurislam in their lives. Nurislam is the previously mentioned Bangladesh guy who provides my meals here. As mentioned he speaks no English but has surmounted this obstacle with an ingenious use of the phone. I have no say whatsoever over my meal times – I tried, it lasted 3 days before the new and ‘improved’ regime was implemented. I now receive a phone call – ‘come, come Byyyyyeee’. If i do not at that instant drop everything and high tail it up to get my food (a 20min walk which at lunch time leaves you soaked) after 10 mins I will get a phone call every minute until he is convinced I am walking his way. I’m sure he has spies. The cries of ‘come, come BYEE’ get louder, with overtones of panic and squeakier as time goes on! Once I’m ensconsed in his lair all is beaming smiles and head wobbles as the food is laid out. Each meal would feed about 5 people and woe betide me if I do not clear it all up! Tutts, down turned mouth, extortions in a range of languages to eat more and do better followed by a huge grump and banging of plates if he is forced to clear unfinished food away. A large bowl of rice usually fried with variety of spices, chillies and often chicken is always there, 6 rotis every meal, 2 -3 bowls of other types of curry - chicken, fish and dhal. Oh and of course a fried egg. God knows what my cholesterol is going to be like with two of those every day for six months! Oh and on special days the fried egg becomes a chilli omelette. The food started off pretty basic as he got the measure of me. Then when he realised I’m a walking dustbin and will eat whatever is put in front of me and not pass out or turn my nose up, we’ve (stomach and me) been treated to lots of Bangladesh curries (a much higher level of cuisine, in his mind, than what the Maldivians have to offer). I have no idea what, other than chicken, is in most of them but they are really yummy. Also watermelon juice appeared a couple of times, apples and some very tasty drink which involved a fruit that looked like frogspawn in the bottom half of the glass the rest of the glass is then filled with milk, sugar and water. If you don’t like sweet things don’t go to Maldives or Asian subcontinent! Oh and for those that have always wondered what strawberry fanta tastes like well i can now tell you - Nurislam had the bottle open and cascading into my glass before I could stop him. I stuck my finger a third of the way up the glass but that was ignored and despite loud protests on my part i was given the full glass. It is revoltingly sweet, cloying and something I will hopefully never have again! NEWS FLASH: Sadly it now appears ready poured and awaiting my arrival. I managed to sneak into the kitchen when he left me unattended for a minute yesterday and pour it down the drain. Will have to man up and tell him at some point..... During the meal he sits and watches me beaming and head wobbling. Every so often, sighing deeply and holding up his hands, he begins to count off on his fingers one at a time all the things about me that cause him concern: 1) no husband 2) no children 3) no house 4) (worst of all) no money! This last one has to be checked daily - voluntary work being something he cannot get his head round. My claim that all this makes me happy is ignored! This brings me nicely onto my new friends. I mentioned the two keralan families last time. Well there are, it transpires, numerous teachers from Kerala working as teachers in schools all over the Maldives. They, and now me, collect at the infamous dock side each evening to chat and enjoy the cooler night air. It also provides an escape from the single rooms they rent from Maldivian families. Shiji and Babu have two teenage boys, Sibi and Tony, who are desperate to learn how to do breast stroke and butterfly so today we had our first lesson in these two strokes. Yours truly having to demonstrate and being told I’m an amazing swimmer to which i naturally agreed! Jeeja, the mother of the other family, was also along to learn to swim because she has been terrified of the sea ever since the 2004 tsunami. The waters swept away her home and she escaped by climbing a coconut tree! Today we got to the point of kicking with floats and being able to walk about in the water without hanging onto me for dear life. All this illicit afternoon, water based activity managed to attract the attention of the police who came to watch us – possibly to check we weren't muslim I don't know. The boys Sibi and Tony have supplied me with more movies – karate kid, home alone and nanny mcphee – sadly I cannot reciprocate as I only brought books out which is, i’ve been told, VERY BORING! Nor do i have any computer games a fact that sent me plummeting in the estimation of the family i stayed with on Hulhumeedhoo island last week. The girl there also told me that I could not be female because I was too tall and wide and so must be a man – lovely little child! As well as Nurislam, Shiji and Jeeja also love to feed me. The other evening I had rice and devilled fish curry at Jeeja’s before a Nurislam onslaught half an hour later washed down with a bottle of coke and wagon wheels at Shiji’s and then went for coffee and ‘short eats’ (snacks - in this case tuna Panini, chocolate cake and bread pudding) with Shareef, one of the guys I met on the fateful ferry trip. When i rolled home at 1130 feeling quite ill I discovered much to the amusement of the security guards that I had managed to lose my room key (again)! This time luckily it had fallen out of my pocket when we’d been sat at the harbour chatting so having borrowed the guards bike i was able to retrieve it quite quickly. I have no idea what the very drugged out person sat on a nearby chair thought when i hove into view on a bike for a midget and fished about on the ground under his seat before holding up my key on its yellow tie with whistle attached exclaiming happily ‘here it is’ before heading off on my two wheeler! You remember I wrote about the taxi and it’s windscreen being half useable. Well I asked Shareef about it as we crept at 5mph down the road in a similar vehicle that he was driving. Creeping along roads is standard as is stopping willy nilly about the road if you need to chat on your phone and can’t be bothered to drive at the same time. So we were sat in a gold no less, sporty vehicle (don’t ask me what make i told you the important bit it was gold) and never got out of first gear! It belonged to his silent friend who had also come along for drinks (drinks always means coffee here as we are in a dry land) and was sat in the back seat. Back to the windscreen - you can see through the black bit a little better at night but not much. Shareef informed me that this was no problem because the clear bit of windscreen allowed you to see the road just in front of your bonnet this being all you ever needed to see! Who wants to be able to look down the road at oncoming traffic or see the pedestrian well before you hit them i ask you? When we were returning to my abode i suddenly noticed we were cruising down the wrong side of the street with oncoming vehicles, well not so rapidly, approaching, (we could have been doing this for quite a while I’m a touch unobservant). As i squeaked a warning I was told it was all ok. Those trees in the middle of the road did not signify a division between two lanes and it was entirely at the drivers discretion as to which side of them he chose to drive. I suppose as the oncoming vehicle was not on the road just in front of his bonnet Shareef had yet to see it and so to him the road was clear!!! On my way back from Hulhumeedhoo island I had 3 hours to kill waiting for a bus in Feydhoo so I walked down to Gan to get some food at the ‘Equator Village’, the Maldives equivalent of a ‘backpackers resort’. At US$130 a night backpacker may be the wrong word but still cheaper than the one over the water costing US$400+ - apparently Rowan Atkinson and Madonna go there. While sat at the bar drinking my coke and waiting for the buffet to start i got chatting to a trio of people – one male brit from essex who raced motor bikes and had broken most of the bones in his body, and a couple who were from germany and venice. So after a while the guy from venice asked the british bloke why he didn’t speak proper English like me!! Luckily the brit was very nice and didn’t say cause i have a posh toffee nosed accent and tried to explain, without much success, that there are lots of different accents all over the UK. I went back there this weekend to go snorkelling and saw turtles, moray eel loads of stunning coral and fish and a shark! As is the norm with me the camera battery died almost instantly so have very few photos. Luckily saw the shark the instant we got in the water so the hazy shots you will see is real life shark.... It certainly puts the heebie jeebies into you when you’re sat on the boat ready to drop over the side and your ‘captain’ informs you they saw two sharks there this morning. You look over and all you can see is blue water no bottom and he’s telling you to hurry up and get in! So while muttering about dying i duly got in and was so busy going goggly eyed over the coral and fish before me that el capitan had to literally turn my head round for me and show me the shark swimming about behind me! Had a very enjoyable hour and a half and can’t wait to get diving. On my various bus trips I met a guy from the US called Mike who is a meteorologist of some description setting up a weather station on Hithadhoo. He is into free diving so am planning to give that a go while I’m out here – apparently you can increase the length of time you can hold your breath with training -sounds like a good pointless challenge and use of my time to me. Have to be wary of holding it to the point that you don’t want to breathe anymore and pass out and die - other than that think it should be good fun. On the ‘work’ front have made my schedule - works out at 6-8 hours of coaching 6 days a week – yippee!!! Hoping to have lots of helpers...... This gives each school 7 one hour sessions to be ready to compete in a regatta......aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh! X Tash Well I’ve been in Addu just over a week now and it’s been quite full on. I arrived last Friday and on the Sunday (which is in fact Monday – Friday and Saturday being the weekend) I had a meeting with the various heads of the schools in Addu Atoll, the mayor and the lady in charge of education for the atoll. I explained the strange set of circumstances that had landed me here and showed them all pictures of the types of boats that were coming – their imaginations were running along the lines of canoes and that needed correcting ASAP! By the end of the meeting all schools wanted me to teach rowing, swimming, life guarding and organise a number of regattas to impress visiting dignitaries and more importantly find out which school is the best at rowing! I’d also been allocated a desk in the education department of the council building and told to report to ‘work’ at 0900 on Tuesday morning – Monday being a holiday for the beginning of Ramazaan. I went and had an ice cream to help me work out how I was to achieve it all.
Tuesday morning saw me sat behind my desk with a blank computer screen and ‘no clue’ written across my forehead. Luckily Shiba, the lady in charge of teacher training for the Atoll, took pity on me and gave me a very thorough run down of where all the schools were located in the Atoll - I was made to draw a map. Everyone who has seen my little map has been very impressed by it so thank you Shiba! Then I got down to the nitty gritty of organising meetings with the principals. My first call set the trend for every other call in answer to “can i organise a meeting?” everyone’s answer is ”oh yes are you coming now?” Er, no is tomorrow ok. Oh yes. (no time given) how about 900 oh yes that is good. Phone calls are funny things here no one says either hello or goodbye so I find I’m trying to guess if the conversation has ended or not in order to get a goodbye in. I feel awful just hanging up on people – not a sentiment shared by anyone else as phones are hung up on me with alacrity and no warning – my grandfather would feel very much at home here – phone’s are for business not wasting time and money on niceties! So a week on all the schools are keen, I’ve been to 6 meetings, I’m struggling to fit all expectations into a timetable that works, boats are due to arrive at the end of the month, trolleys to move the boats around on are being made, a location to store the boats has been found.... Now fingers crossed all promises come to fruition at the right time. I got given a map the other day – it’s the first time a tourist map has been printed for the Atoll! It’s very big 6 pages of A3 and full of useful titbits of information such as ‘roads can be pleasant to walk around with ample space and no congestion at all’! I have yet to use it for anything practical like finding my way around. Instead I tend to ask about for directions. Not the best ploy. Usually an airy wave of the hand encompassing all land and sea for a good 180 degrees is the best you get. I received this when asking the receptionists at the city council where the bus stop was – these are not sign posted in any way. I’ve caught the bus twice now – it still feels like an achievement against the odds. The first time, a bloke hanging over the school wall staring into the playground was pointed out to me as someone waiting for a bus – I didn’t feel it polite to say that at home he would have been described as something else...... Then today the sight of a group of four people huddled hotly under a tree on the road made me wonder whether this could also be a bus stop. As I was at the far end of the island from work and didn’t fancy a 30min walk in the baking sun I joined them. It did in fact turn out to be a bus stop. As I suspected the conductor did not have change for a 500 rufiyaa note (the price of a bus ticket being 10 Rufiyaa or 50p) luckily he was happy to just wave me on board. The 500 Rufiyaa note has been causing me issue all day. I caught a taxi to Nooranee school this morning having learnt that a 45 minute walk up the island leaves you covered in sweat stains and dripping from every limb – not a good first impression. I got in and discovered that I couldn’t see out the top half of the windscreen. If I wanted to see the road to any degree I had to slump right down in my chair. Oh this is different I said and got told it was very good as it kept the sun off the driver. Luckily, Didi the taxi driver, who gave me a raffle ticket for a prize draw of a bed, sofa and kitchen unit (all just what my room requires),despite being a thickset guy is not blessed with a long back, and so his line of vision was safely below the halfway mark on the windscreen. We got to the school I fish out my 500 rufiyaas (it’s all I had note wise) and was told no change available but you can just have it on credit and pay next time you get a taxi. Oh ok. The post office was my next port of call after the school. Now I hate post offices, they’re the same all over the world, interminable queues and no-one quite sure what they’re doing either side of the counter and there’s always someone making a total bodge up of their passport application. The post office looked quite pleasant from the outside an old blue and red painted, single story building, corrugated iron roof with steps up onto a veranda and a wooden door with an ‘open’ sign on it. So in I went. The actual area of operation was tiny about a fifth of the actual building. Into this tiny useable area had been crammed three desks – two directly in front of the door littered with heaps of paper and junk and one on the right hand side of the door but facing the back wall – not the customers. 3 chairs, 8 customers, 3 staff were also wedged in there. The post awaiting collection was not arranged in neat lines on shelves around the room instead it lay in piles all over the floor on both sides of the desks. To collect your parcel seemed to require two members of staff -one to sift through the heaps and the other (the one manning the desk by the door arrayed in what looked like a sea captains uniform) to write down the details in a book. There didn’t seem to be any order to who got served when. So after a while I waved my letter about a bit got offered an envelope (have yet to find an envelope in a store) and after addressing it and using a handy stapler to seal it managed to attract enough attention to get it weighed and some money taken off me – (no, no change for 500 rufiyaa) luckily I had 19 rufiyya in ones and twos on me. The last I saw of my letter was it sitting amoungst the chaos of papers and parcels on one of the desks as I was assured I was now finished and ushered out. Never even saw a stamp so god knows if it gets there! On Friday I borrowed the Bangladeshi guy (Koyez) who works at the guest house’s bike to get to a good snorkelling spot. It was a tad small to say the least and lacked brakes I discovered as I failed to stop while heading for the dock edge! Snorkelling was very good but I managed to leave my phone in my pocket so that destroyed that and I spent the rest of the day locating a store that sold replacement phones! On a previous swim I lost the room key and main guest house key in the sea - hopefully that is now all out of my system! I’ve also moved out of the guest house and into the council rooms. Some of the police are billeted around the back in barrack style rooms and they have the ultimate luxury - a washing machine. The oddly named ‘Fuzzy’ setting seems to have worked a treat and I have nice clean clothes again. One interesting feature of my new accommodation is that all functioning plug sockets are up by the ceiling requiring a chair and tip toes to access them – still trying to work out why..... Now Ramadan, or as it is spelt here Ramazaan, started on the 1st of August and runs until the 31st. However, I found out today if for any reason during this time you cannot observe your daily fast you have to make up for it during September. Illness and “women’s issues” being two things that allow you to break fast. Fast starts from 430 in the morning and finishes at 1820. People eat at 1820 and then again at 2000 before getting up at around 3 to have the last meal before the day begins. Combined with prayer times and altered working hours as well as women having to have all the food cooked and ready before six it leads to some very strange times of operation. No-one thinks twice about calling you at 1130 at night and then when you say no you don’t fancy a coffee right now the penny drops and uttering their favourite phrase 'my god’ they laugh at the fact you’re sleeping. It seems to be very much a personal thing on how you run your day. Some sleep in the afternoon and then are awake most of the night and others are the opposite. Ramazaan has created some fun regarding my meals. While i was at the guest house it was all ok – I was fed as normal and as I was the only one there it did not upset anybody. Having been moved into my new accommodation on Thursday evening, with the weekend looming, I had to wait til today to get things sorted. I now eat at a newly created restaurant called Checkers owned by the same guy that has the guest house. As the place has yet to open I’m the only customer. So I sit in a room full of boxes, plates, triffid style plastic flowers and pictures of Mecca pinned over the top of a scenic river picture eating my food with another guy from Bangladesh sitting observing me! He speaks even less English than Koyez but that hasn’t stopped the two of us attempting communication through mime and head wobbling! So as well as Divehi I think I need to learn some basic Bangladeshi in order to survive the six months! I made some friends on Friday night while walking back to my room. A couple out walking with their kid said hello (most people do as you’re walking along) and then asked where I was from etc. We started chatting, they are from Kerala (india) and working here, she’s a teacher and he’s breeding fish for aquariums. Next thing I know I’ve been invited to the room they are renting from a Maldivian family and being fed keralan delicacies that their relative has just brought over. Went back yesterday to see them and managed to splash my milky tea all over the place while demonstrating the art of ballet! Then I met another keralan family out swimming yesterday evening. The wife was being taught to swim by her husband while her fish of children swam and dove around the place. It was her second lesson. Armed with two empty water bottles and a swim hat she was making good progress. During Ramazaan the Maldivians don’t really go in the sea that much so it’s just us infidels cooling off after the heat of the day....! Right stopping now x Tash Sorry for the long radio/blog silence internet access has been limited since I left England. Had a good flight and an interesting day in Oman on the way over. Took a tour offered by a taxi driver who spoke no English but would very enthusiastically point out every car showroom we passed – trust me there were lots! We also did a circuit of the top hotel in Muscat’s forecourt just to drive the point home that is was the best! Souk was lovely and I sweated my way round wrapped in long sleeve, trousers and scarf in a cosy 40 degrees.... Managed not to get sucked into buying everything I was offered (this time Confucius wasn’t about, as he was in China, to tell me I needed them) so only came away with half a kilo of frankincence! Myrhh was also on offer as was jasmine. I wasn’t too convinced by the Jasmine it smelt more like lifebuoy soap than any Jasmine I’d ever smelt before. We also popped into the most expensive perfume store in the Souk so that Ali, tour guide extraordinaire – who’s number I have if anyone is going that way and needs a taxi? – could get a taster spray of something that cost over £100 on his little tassle (Pa no comments please) that hung round his neck. I was offered a sniff of said tassle as we re-entered the steamy heat of the souk and it did smell good not sure £100 good!
Rest of the flight passed uneventfully. I was only midly put out by the fact that from Oman we went to Sri Lanka for an hour before dropping down to Male. The travel agent from crystal travel’s had failed to mention this as I’d vetoed a flight that went to Sri Lanka for a stop over in favour of an Oman stop over as I have a strange illogical issue with going past my destination to then go back towards it!! Annoys me lots!! So after sending a few curses his way I zoned out to some film with Liam Neeson in it to distract me from my ever lengthening journey. Had a good week in Male puttering about with Rachel and developing a truly storming sinus infection as well as doing some very enjoyable snorkelling and taking some fuzzy underwater shots - very awkward when being rolled around by waves and generally over excited! Also spent a large amount of my time watching kids from one of the schools in Addu compete in a swimming gala. They did very well and seemed to enjoy having me around to ask endless questions. Did I eat pig? My answer of yes got them very worked up. They seem to be under the impression that you will die or be very unwell if you eat pork yet here I was at the ripe (and very old age) of 30, a fact ascertained from the starter question, apparently quite healthy - just very pale and unmarried (question 2). My being 30 and unmarried is very unusual, most Maldivians currently getting married in their mid twenties or earlier and it was certainly earlier in previous generations. Quite a few of the kids Mum’s were my age. I’m sure pig eating and being an old maid have been linked for ever more in their heads! The other reason for sitting in the baking heat and getting burnt while watching kids swim was that I was joining them on the ferry back to Addu so thought it would be a good idea to get to know a few of them before we embarked. The trip was hilarious. I’d been asking around as to how long it took to get from Male to Addu by boat and had been given various times 10 hours was the first this then progressed to 18 and then 36. So I was all set for my 36 hour trip – 72 hours after leaving port we rocked up in Addu......! Feeling a little frayed around the edges and I didn’t stop bobbing for a good 6 hours! We were meant to sail at 2300 on Monday the 25th but due to the arrival of rain and wind this got postponed to 530 the following morning. All I had been given for info was the boats name: Hivaaru, time of departure and that it was docked by STO market and the supreme court – I had no idea where either of those were. Thought i’d better find out so Monday afternoon while it was still light I located the supreme court and market and a load of boats tied up to the dock side but could i find one called Hivaaru or anyone who knew of it? No. So having been assured that this section was where boats for Addu left I returned to do my packing. Next morning being a typical westerner I was up in good time and into a taxi at 5am for the 5 min trip to the dock so that i wasn’t left behind. Anyway taxi driver had no more luck than i did the night before with finding the boat so i was left on the road side, sat on my bags in the dark waiting. 535 another taxi pulled up and disgorged a load of kids and kit which was piled around me a couple more lots were there by 6 (scheduled boat departure time) and the sky was lightening. The main group were still waiting elsewhere on the island because some late comers had still not arrived. As we waited everyone was bustling about trying to find the boat – no success whatsoever. Finally the teacher in charge appeared with the rest of the kids and it transpired the boat was not called Hivaaru but Furusath and was tied up three boats out from the dock side! By 9 all the bags, people, live pet fish, chest freezers, dayglo chicks and other random cargo had been loaded and we had untangled all the various ropes holding us in place and eased out of the harbour and were off! I was only sea sick for half of one day. I’d taken my sea sick prevention arm bands off the night before because it had been so calm and i was feeling fine and also the bands seem to have been made for some incredibly small wristed person – they fit snugly onto two of my fingers and were cutting into my wrists alot! Anyway I woke up to a madly pitching boat, looked at the dolphins riding alongside and was then ill until we finally made it back inside an atoll and the water calmed down! My bands went back on for the remainder of the trip. We stopped twice on our route down to pick up cargo and give the passengers a chance to get off and wash. At each stop we were met and escorted to a local house and allowed to use their bathrooms. Felt loads better after each shower. The second stop was on Vahdhoo island where we waited from 9am to 1am the following morning – by the time we got on the boat again we were all so zonked we passed out and no one stirred despite the boat crashing about wildly as we crossed the equator so much so that water was splashing in over the sides. I remember thinking hmm my computer is getting wet before the need for sleep drowned out any care i had on that front! While on Vahdhoo for something to do we went in search of fresh produce to buy. This involved setting off into the undergrowth with two mothers, Mhandha and Miriam, giggling and squealing about being raped and murdered in the general direction of some fields they’d been told about. We met a panga wielding man on the path who rather than slaughter us led us back to his fields and made a packet out of M and M selling them butternuts, watermelons and yams. In retaliation the two of them told the ladies working in the field that the foreigner with them was from England and was the Queen’s daughter. Much to their delight the ladies bought the story hook, line and sinker and even agreed that it must be so because i looked like her!!!! We got fed on the boat – ferry is too grand a name – wooden tub much better suited. Fish curry, chicken curry and noodles with tuna curry all very tasty if you’re not feeling ill! Bread and jam with sweet milky tea for breakfast prepared by a guy that looked like yoda and who caught me as I came out of the loo one night and made me sit and eat supper perched on little stools by the roaring engine with the rest of the crew. I don’t think many, if any, foreigners travel by ferry and everyone is very impressed / highly amused that i did!! Addu is really lovely and I’ve been very warmly welcomed – i’ll write more about Addu in the next blog. Lastly as you’ll have seen from Rachel the boats have arrived and the ones for Addu should be coming down towards the middle of this month – very exciting! X Tash Yesterday we unloaded the boats and what was a very exciting moment became far less so 10 hours later still on a boat in the harbour. All seven boats have been unloaded and are currently sat on another bigger boat until we have safe places to keep them on land - slowly slowly slower slower slow, it is all good as long as we do not grind to a complete halt! I have been busy experimenting with video editing, wanted to make this more exciting than it actually was so imagine how boring it was to be there!
A huge thank you to everyone who donated to help buy these boats, particularly the 5x15 group, and to all our our other supporters. As Ramadan has now started, swimming has sadly come to an end for the month, despite many of the students being too young to fast, I have still stopped teaching so as everyone has the same opportunity for lessons. Below are some of the photos from swimming this term. You can see I have been busy........
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RachelI am one of the volunteer coaches about to head off for the Maldives and queen of this website! TashI am also one of the volunteer coaches and will be heading out in June 2011
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September 2012
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